Trekking Nanda Devi
Jean's adventures on India's second highest Himalayan peak
My trekking holiday took me to the region of Nanda Devi, the second highest Himalayan peak in India. Getting there was quite a journey, involving an overnight train from Delhi to Kathgodam (an experience in itself!) followed by a day and a half by road into the mountains where recent Monsoon rains meant we had to negotiate landslides, fallen trees and broken bridges. Our journey was delayed at a check-point where our trek leaders had to obtain a Forestry Authority permit which ended up costing more than expected.
But at last we set off on foot, up a steep “shortcut” and soon reached our first camp in a damp farmer’s field. I hadn’t been there long before I discovered two leeches on my ankle! However the views when I opened my tent flap in the morning more than compensated for that. Our route took us along a track which was being repaired by both male and female road-workers until we crossed a river and climbed now in the rain to our next stop. We were camping more or less in the wild, taking advantage of trails and pastures used by herdsmen/women and taking our water from streams then boiling it. Our food was a mixture of European and Asian, all expertly cooked fresh every day by the camp crew.
Next morning, it was the usual routine, with tea and a bowl of warm washing-water delivered to the tent at about 7 a.m. closely followed by a copious breakfast. After a steep morning climb we crossed the Madari Pass then descended to our next camp. The following day we continued down, passing a placid herd of goats before reaching a small rural village where people were drying their produce (wool and food crops) on stone terraces. Our lunch that day consisted of luncheon-meat in a spicy sauce, roasted potatoes, lemony coleslaw and carrot cake. Lots of carbs and just the job! We then crossed the Ram Ganga (a Ganges tributary) and started the inevitable steep climb up the other side, in hot sun, to another village above which we camped. On arrival, our horses were released to graze as usual, however they decided to go a bit wild and charge around the tents instead.
We climbed for four hours the next morning, then camped short of our intended destination at Thaltak due to lack of water up there. It rained in the afternoon but cleared later and in our isolated bowl in the mountains the stars were fantastic.
The following day was to be our highest climb. Unfortunately there had been lots of commotion in the night as the free-roaming horses, all equipped with clanging bells, insisted on wandering round the tents and knocking over the water-bucket which formed our hand-washing facility. We made an early start and progressed steadily up to Thaltak then continued to the crest of the ridge at Ranthon from where we had a fabulous view of Nanda Devi (7816 m) in one direction, the Panch Chuli range in another, and the snowy peaks of neighbouring Nepal to the east. After lunch we descended to the same camp as the night before. I did a bit of much-needed clothes washing which turned out to be a mistake as it didn’t dry for five days.
Panch Chuli range
Frosty morning
"Our lunch that day consisted of luncheon-meat in a spicy sauce, roasted potatoes, lemony coleslaw and carrot cake. Lots of carbs and just the job!"
Tent at dusk
In the morning we descended through the forest crossing lots of streams, one via a bridge of logs which had been built only days before and which looked like it might come adrift and turn into a raft at any moment. The skill of the horsemen was impressive, getting their reluctant animals over the streams and up perilously steep banks. It rained as we set up camp but by morning it was clear and frosty.
We set off on the steep climb to the Ruddhahkhan Pass and saw fresh bear-prints just above our camp. Leopards apparently roam these parts too. There was some snow as we reached the top and it became very cold as we descended to our camp. My tent was stiff with frost before I got in it and I wore several layers of clothes inside my sleeping bag that night.
"We set off on the steep climb to the Ruddhahkhan Pass and saw fresh bear-prints just above our camp."
The following morning the sun was coming up behind the mountains and we continued our descent, crossing many more steams and eventually reaching our final trekking destination Munsiari where we camped in the garden of a house. It was strange to be in a town after days in the hills with no phone signal or wi-fi. We had been totally engrossed in the landscape and our life under canvas (or the more waterproof modern equivalent). All the rubbish we generated on the trek was carried with us and had to be taken to the authorities at the end to show that we hadn’t left it scattered around the environment.
Taking a last look at the snowy Panch Chuli mountains in the morning sun, we started our drive back down to the plains, counting 35 hairpins before lunch. We spent that night in a hotel – sheer luxury after nine days in a tent but disappointingly there was only cold water in my shower.
Our descent continued slowly the next day, with heavier traffic and so many landslides and dusty roadworks to cope with that we missed our return train at Kathgodam. There followed a hair-raising chase in the car to the next station where we just managed to get on the train before it continued to Delhi. Phew!
"There followed a hair-raising chase in the car to the next station where we just managed to get on the train before it continued to Delhi. Phew!"
Breakfast
Steep ascent
